Things do not end with buying and installing a new garage door in Wynnum West. The thing is, it require proper care and maintenance for them to retain their top quality and condition. In fact, even if you purchased a topnotch brand and a heavy-duty material, it is still a must that you do the right things to care for your garage door. Here are some tips on door maintenance that will help you keep the door looking and working like it is brand new and minimising the need for garage door repairs.
Garage Door Repair – Problems and Fixes in Wynnum West
When designing a new home or garage it is very important take the time to consider what garage door sizes will work best. It is important not to assume that you will only need a standard size door. Once you have made the decision it is more or less irrevocable. In addition you also should consider increasing the size of your garage and that includes the height of the garage walls as well. It really is hard to beat an oversize garage.
Even if you presently own only a single medium size car you should seriously consider spending the extra money to make your garage larger and that includes the garage doors. Standard garage door sizes include 8'x7' and 8'x16' sizes. These sizes will accommodate a medium size care comfortably but not a large SUV or ordinary pickup truck. In many cases an 8 foot high just will not give a pickup enough clearance vertical clearance and many times the trucks mirrors will not make through the 7 foot width.
If you work with your builder and architect you will find that it will not cost that much more to increase the garage wall height. Doing so will give you a lot more options in terms of the capability. A garage with 10 high side walls will easily accommodate a 9 foot garage door. So why do you need a 9 foot garage door? If you own a pickup truck you will sooner or later have it loaded with a high load and that load will easily make it into the garage and out of the weather. If you load up the roof rack of your SUV with a luggage box in most cases it will not clear a standard 7 foot high garage door.
When it comes to garage door sizes width is also a critical consideration. If you own a boat or utility trailer you will find that they are frequently close to 9 foot wide. This means your toys are going to be sitting out in the weather because they are too wide to fit through the standard 7 foot wide door. Even a person who handles a vehicle and trailer well will appreciate the extra width of a 10 or 12 foot wide door when back up the load into the garage. The extra width may also keep people from banging your truck mirrors.
In many cases people will opt for the standard 16 foot double garage doors. These doors do give you the width you need to back in your pontoon boat and other wide loads. Again having a 9 or 10 foot high door will allow you to back it in without taking down the bimini or hard top.
Designing and building a home with an oversize garage is a good investment in the value of your home. Even if you never use the garage to its full potential it will appeal to a larger market when it comes time to sell your home. Using large garage door sizes will allow the next owner to store all his or her toys in the garage. This is especially true if your oversize garage is enclosed with the best garage doors as well. In terms of garage doors pricing spending a small additional amount of money to oversize your garage may increase the value of your property substantially.
Garage Doors - DIY Fitting
IMPORTANT NOTE: READ THIS WHOLE GUIDE BEFORE STARTING!
This is a D.I.Y. guide and can be performed by any one providing you have the correct tools:
1. 4mm Pin Punch.
2. Mole Grips.
3. Cable cutting tool such as snips or pliers.
6. Set of steps.
To begin, if only one cable has snapped you will need to cut the cable on the other side to allow you to be able to replace both sides. If you still have tension in the spring then put the c-clip into the whole in the shaft to the left of the right hand side cone.
This should be supplied with your cones and cables repair kit.
Once this is in place you can cut the intact cable.
After cutting the cable you will need to climb up your steps and locate the 4mm pin which holds the cone in place on the shaft. When you have located this (you may need to rotate the shaft slightly to get access) take your hammer and 4mm pin punch and knock the pin all the way through and into the timber frame. I recommend you spray the end of the punch with some WD40 or similar so it is easier to pull back out when the pin is removed.
If the door is fitted between the opening then it is likely you will have to loosen the gear from the top of the frame to allow you to pull the cone from the shaft.
IMPORTANT: You MUST do one side at a time!
When you have the cone free, replace it with the new one and be sure to take the old pin out of the timber frame if it has jammed into it as it will be in the way if you do not! Don't replace the pin yet, leave the cone loose.
Refit the gear to the the frame.
Now go over to the other side and do the same.
Fitting the cable onto the pivot point.
When fitting the cable into the pivot point it is important to have the cables in the correct position otherwise the door will not open at all.
To do this put the pivot point through the loop. TIP: An easy way to do this is to unscrew the guide or runner and move it to one side, put the cable around the pivot point and re-fix the guide.
When done there will be some slack cable. Go back up to the cone and turn it towards you so that the slack cable wraps around the cone. When you have taken up the slack the the holes in the shaft and cone should match up. You can then knock the pin in. TIP: You may find it easier to knock the pin partially into the cone before taking up the slack cable as you will need to keep pulling the cone toward you until the pin is in. Alternatively, have an assistant hold the tension on the cone whilst you knock in the pin - be careful not to hit your assistants fingers with the hammer!
Now do the same on the other side.
If this is done correctly the left hand side pin should be at the 10 O'clock position and the right hand side should be at 2 O'clock.
The C clip can now be removed and the door should run up and down.
If the door is difficult to lift then you will have to put more tension on the spring. All up and over doors with cones and cables operate under the same principle but often there are slight differences from manufacturer to manufacturer but essentially you need to do the following:
About 2 feet in from the left hand side you will see a collar attached to the spring. This collar holds the spring tension to the centre shaft. If the collar has a nut type end then you should be able to hold the tension whilst undoing the screw(s) with an Allen Key. Once you have the spring under tension you then rotate the spring away from you (upwards). Depending on how much tension has been lost will depend on how many turns you need to give the spring. Generally speaking one movement is half a turn. Use a screwdriver or similar in the holes provided in the collar to rotate the spring. When the spring feels like it has gone as tight as it can go, hold the tension whilst tightening up the Allen Screws. Test the door slowly up and down. If it will not go all the way up without the cables going slack then you need to put more turns on the spring.
Finally, lubricate the guides and spray oil onto the spring also, this will help to keep any squeaking down and allow the door to move more freely.
You should allow a couple of hours to do this, although it can be done much quicker if the pins come out easily.
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