Things do not end with buying and installing a new garage door in Pullenvale. The thing is, it require proper care and maintenance for them to retain their top quality and condition. In fact, even if you purchased a topnotch brand and a heavy-duty material, it is still a must that you do the right things to care for your garage door. Here are some tips on door maintenance that will help you keep the door looking and working like it is brand new and minimising the need for garage door repairs.
Garage Door Repair – Problems and Fixes in Pullenvale
There are at least 7 different brackets that work to hold your garage door and opening components in place. General maintenance involves checking the screws for tightness, although you should always avoid over-tightening. Other repairs may require the help of a professional.
You might not realize how heavy the door is, because you can raise it manually with relative ease. This is something of an illusion. The doors are actually very heavy. It is the torsion springs at the top of each door that allows it to be raised without a lot of exertion.
As you are leaving or coming home for the day, take the time to watch the panels rise. Are they moving smoothly and quietly or is there are lot of shaking and noise?
Noisiness or shaking could indicate that a bracket is cracked or loose. If the issue is not addressed in a timely manner, the results could be bad. A section could fall on your vehicle. The weight of the door could cause other components to break or pull loose. If you don't spend a little time and money now to check for the cause of your problem, you could spend a lot of money in the future, repairing the damage.
Although the styles and designs vary from one manufacturer to the next, there are some similarities. You should notice a 5 inch bearing bracket in the center of the door. This one is under a great deal of tension. You should not try to replace it on your own. You can tighten it, if it seems loose. But, if it is cracked or does not tighten as it should, you should call a repairman and have it replaced.
On the top inside corners of each side is another pair of brackets. These work loose relatively easily and are usually simple to tighten. You can replace a cracked one as long as you have good tools.
Another pair is located at the bottom. A single one is referred to as a "lift bottom bracket". They are more complex than some of the others. They include a Milford pin and a cable holding stud.
With low headroom doors, there are additional brackets and carriers. Most are long-lasting as they are made of metal with a galvanized steel finish, but they can become damaged, just like any other piece of hardware.
I recently read an article where a homeowner was advised by an employee in a home improvement store to turn a cracked bracket upside down and drill a new screw hole. That is not something I would ever recommend. If your repair fails suddenly, you will end up spending a lot more in the long run. So, replacing is always better than repairing.
Home improvement stores sometimes sell single garage door brackets. If you need to replace one, you may as well replace the other. It has received just as much wear and tear as the other. It might look alright for now, but it won't last for long.
How To Pick The Best Garage Door
IMPORTANT NOTE: READ THIS WHOLE GUIDE BEFORE STARTING!
This is a D.I.Y. guide and can be performed by any one providing you have the correct tools:
1. 4mm Pin Punch.
2. Mole Grips.
3. Cable cutting tool such as snips or pliers.
6. Set of steps.
To begin, if only one cable has snapped you will need to cut the cable on the other side to allow you to be able to replace both sides. If you still have tension in the spring then put the c-clip into the whole in the shaft to the left of the right hand side cone.
This should be supplied with your cones and cables repair kit.
Once this is in place you can cut the intact cable.
After cutting the cable you will need to climb up your steps and locate the 4mm pin which holds the cone in place on the shaft. When you have located this (you may need to rotate the shaft slightly to get access) take your hammer and 4mm pin punch and knock the pin all the way through and into the timber frame. I recommend you spray the end of the punch with some WD40 or similar so it is easier to pull back out when the pin is removed.
If the door is fitted between the opening then it is likely you will have to loosen the gear from the top of the frame to allow you to pull the cone from the shaft.
IMPORTANT: You MUST do one side at a time!
When you have the cone free, replace it with the new one and be sure to take the old pin out of the timber frame if it has jammed into it as it will be in the way if you do not! Don't replace the pin yet, leave the cone loose.
Refit the gear to the the frame.
Now go over to the other side and do the same.
Fitting the cable onto the pivot point.
When fitting the cable into the pivot point it is important to have the cables in the correct position otherwise the door will not open at all.
To do this put the pivot point through the loop. TIP: An easy way to do this is to unscrew the guide or runner and move it to one side, put the cable around the pivot point and re-fix the guide.
When done there will be some slack cable. Go back up to the cone and turn it towards you so that the slack cable wraps around the cone. When you have taken up the slack the the holes in the shaft and cone should match up. You can then knock the pin in. TIP: You may find it easier to knock the pin partially into the cone before taking up the slack cable as you will need to keep pulling the cone toward you until the pin is in. Alternatively, have an assistant hold the tension on the cone whilst you knock in the pin - be careful not to hit your assistants fingers with the hammer!
Now do the same on the other side.
If this is done correctly the left hand side pin should be at the 10 O'clock position and the right hand side should be at 2 O'clock.
The C clip can now be removed and the door should run up and down.
If the door is difficult to lift then you will have to put more tension on the spring. All up and over doors with cones and cables operate under the same principle but often there are slight differences from manufacturer to manufacturer but essentially you need to do the following:
About 2 feet in from the left hand side you will see a collar attached to the spring. This collar holds the spring tension to the centre shaft. If the collar has a nut type end then you should be able to hold the tension whilst undoing the screw(s) with an Allen Key. Once you have the spring under tension you then rotate the spring away from you (upwards). Depending on how much tension has been lost will depend on how many turns you need to give the spring. Generally speaking one movement is half a turn. Use a screwdriver or similar in the holes provided in the collar to rotate the spring. When the spring feels like it has gone as tight as it can go, hold the tension whilst tightening up the Allen Screws. Test the door slowly up and down. If it will not go all the way up without the cables going slack then you need to put more turns on the spring.
Finally, lubricate the guides and spray oil onto the spring also, this will help to keep any squeaking down and allow the door to move more freely.
You should allow a couple of hours to do this, although it can be done much quicker if the pins come out easily.
Roller Garage Door - Convenient and Affordable