Things do not end with buying and installing a new garage door in Lake Manchester. The thing is, it require proper care and maintenance for them to retain their top quality and condition. In fact, even if you purchased a topnotch brand and a heavy-duty material, it is still a must that you do the right things to care for your garage door. Here are some tips on door maintenance that will help you keep the door looking and working like it is brand new and minimising the need for garage door repairs.
Garage Door Repair – Problems and Fixes in Lake Manchester
Manually opening and closing a garage door can be a tiresome task in bad weather. It can also be physically challenging for those of advancing years, or people with a disability.
A remote controlled automated garage door can remove the need to exit a vehicle in order to enter or leave a garage. Furthermore, it requires no physical effort, it increases personal security and most standard garage doors can easily be converted into automated ones at a limited expense.
Automated garage door options
Garage doors come in four basic formats and all can be operated by a motorised mechanism supplemented by a fixed or portable remote control unit.
The advantage of a hand-held remote control is that it allows the door to be controlled from within the vehicle. A fixed wall mounted control panel requires the user to leave the vehicle in order to commence the opening or closing, which is less desirable.
Types of garage door
Side hinged garage doors can be automated, but they are the most complex, the most expensive and the least practical option for this kind of treatment. As such, most automated side hinged doors are custom commissions.
Up and over garage doors are the most popular style of door and also one of the easiest to buy or convert into an automated system. A motorised door kit can work efficiently on this kind of door because of the counterbalancing mechanism of the "up and over" design which reduces the loads that the motor has to deal with. There are many conversion kits available for this style of garage door.
Roller garage doors are probably the best suited style of door for automation. These doors are normally made from either galvanised plastic coated steel, or insulated double skin aluminium, and they roll around a tubular drum which is supported above the garage door opening. The garage door slides up and down side rails that ensure a perfect mechanism for automation. Most roller style garage doors are purchased and fitted in automated form.
Sliding garage doors use a door made from a series of sectionalized panels that run on floor and head mounted tracks. The door slides around to the side of the opening to make the garage accessible and it is stored vertically against the inside face of one of the garage walls when open. This style of garage door lends itself perfectly to automation and most garage doors of this kind are sold with motorised kits. There is also a vertical operating version of this style of door called a "sectional" garage door.
In order to benefit from an automated door it is advisable to select a system that offers hand-held remote control units. Most automated door kits provide a minimum of two remote controls and these allow the door to be opened or closed without the need to leave the car or truck. The remotes are battery powered and will easily fit into a pocket, or double as a key fob. Remotes generally have an operational distance of 50 to 60 feet and they can also be used to trigger garage lighting.
How To Pick The Best Garage Door
IMPORTANT NOTE: READ THIS WHOLE GUIDE BEFORE STARTING!
This is a D.I.Y. guide and can be performed by any one providing you have the correct tools:
1. 4mm Pin Punch.
2. Mole Grips.
3. Cable cutting tool such as snips or pliers.
6. Set of steps.
To begin, if only one cable has snapped you will need to cut the cable on the other side to allow you to be able to replace both sides. If you still have tension in the spring then put the c-clip into the whole in the shaft to the left of the right hand side cone.
This should be supplied with your cones and cables repair kit.
Once this is in place you can cut the intact cable.
After cutting the cable you will need to climb up your steps and locate the 4mm pin which holds the cone in place on the shaft. When you have located this (you may need to rotate the shaft slightly to get access) take your hammer and 4mm pin punch and knock the pin all the way through and into the timber frame. I recommend you spray the end of the punch with some WD40 or similar so it is easier to pull back out when the pin is removed.
If the door is fitted between the opening then it is likely you will have to loosen the gear from the top of the frame to allow you to pull the cone from the shaft.
IMPORTANT: You MUST do one side at a time!
When you have the cone free, replace it with the new one and be sure to take the old pin out of the timber frame if it has jammed into it as it will be in the way if you do not! Don't replace the pin yet, leave the cone loose.
Refit the gear to the the frame.
Now go over to the other side and do the same.
Fitting the cable onto the pivot point.
When fitting the cable into the pivot point it is important to have the cables in the correct position otherwise the door will not open at all.
To do this put the pivot point through the loop. TIP: An easy way to do this is to unscrew the guide or runner and move it to one side, put the cable around the pivot point and re-fix the guide.
When done there will be some slack cable. Go back up to the cone and turn it towards you so that the slack cable wraps around the cone. When you have taken up the slack the the holes in the shaft and cone should match up. You can then knock the pin in. TIP: You may find it easier to knock the pin partially into the cone before taking up the slack cable as you will need to keep pulling the cone toward you until the pin is in. Alternatively, have an assistant hold the tension on the cone whilst you knock in the pin - be careful not to hit your assistants fingers with the hammer!
Now do the same on the other side.
If this is done correctly the left hand side pin should be at the 10 O'clock position and the right hand side should be at 2 O'clock.
The C clip can now be removed and the door should run up and down.
If the door is difficult to lift then you will have to put more tension on the spring. All up and over doors with cones and cables operate under the same principle but often there are slight differences from manufacturer to manufacturer but essentially you need to do the following:
About 2 feet in from the left hand side you will see a collar attached to the spring. This collar holds the spring tension to the centre shaft. If the collar has a nut type end then you should be able to hold the tension whilst undoing the screw(s) with an Allen Key. Once you have the spring under tension you then rotate the spring away from you (upwards). Depending on how much tension has been lost will depend on how many turns you need to give the spring. Generally speaking one movement is half a turn. Use a screwdriver or similar in the holes provided in the collar to rotate the spring. When the spring feels like it has gone as tight as it can go, hold the tension whilst tightening up the Allen Screws. Test the door slowly up and down. If it will not go all the way up without the cables going slack then you need to put more turns on the spring.
Finally, lubricate the guides and spray oil onto the spring also, this will help to keep any squeaking down and allow the door to move more freely.
You should allow a couple of hours to do this, although it can be done much quicker if the pins come out easily.
Easy Garage Door Maintenance and Troubleshooting